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At times I write this blog in the early hours when I'm sometimes a little worse for wear so to speak, and post it. Occasionally, in the cold light of day and complete sobriety, I realise that perhaps the vino wasn't so veritas and corrections / editing are in order. If you catch it in between these times, please forgive any offence caused. * * * * * 9th. November 2008 I'm about to lose my internet connection again and in the light of the fact that the last week hasn't been very good in terms of access whilst being expensive to boot, it is unlikely that I will be back on for a few days. Now that I have my 30 days up on the camping site, I plan to move down to Motril in the next few days unless something exciting suddenly happens. As last year, I have thoroughly enjoyed my stay in Banos de Fortuna despite the rather bad weather from time to time which has now improved beyond all measure. If I am still in Spain in a year, I will be back again. As regards work, I am now 3 stops short of the Kenneth Jones / Nicholson instrument. When I say 3 stops short, I mean that I have everything that I recorded up and running in HW3 - albeit in rough condition but exactly as they sound off the windchest. I believe that I can create a 3 manual with about 40 stops which will be a little different from what I have produced before. So why have I suddenly begun working on the KJ / N stuff ? Simple really. Whilst much of the Willis stuff is pretty much sorted, I am missing bits and pieces and as ever, mixtures are proving to be a nightmare. The KJ / N stuff has some good ranks which although inherrently modern will provide certain missing aspects of the big Willis spec. such as a rather good Salicional and enough Diapasons to construct several good mixtures. It also stands quite well on its own albeit rather "modern British" as opposed to Romantic. The other reason is that with rapidly diminishing funds, I have to get something out soon so that I can earn a bit of money which will allow me to continue my work here. As I have said before, the mixing of different pipes etc. is not uncommon and when it comes down to it, in broad terms, a stopped wooden flute is just that. The general construction and voicing and overall toneal quality tends to vary little (with the odd exception) so if I can find some nice flutes etc. from other sources which blend in well with the other stuff that I have got, I'm going to use them ! Just how far this goes can be surmised by several of Conachers' new instruments when constructed which had pipework by Schulze, Cavaille Coll, Zimmerman and a couple of others all in the same instrument. The results were excellent it's just that he just chose the best makers and voicers for each stop. From what I remember, even the Harrison in the RFH had reeds made in Holland and certainly most builders today don't have their own pipe making facility and thus rely on their pipework from one or many sources - nothing changes. 8th. November 2008 Another gorgeous day so I cycled down to the Saturday market in Fortuna which is really large and stocked up on cheap fruit and veg as well as some other bits and pieces. One thing that is so totally "non UK" is that in markets or merely in touring vans going round the campsites, it is usual to see live animals offered for sale. In the right of the photo which was just one tiny part of the market there are various cages etc. These contained live ducks, chickens, roosters, snails, rabbits, pigeons, quail etc. They ain't for pets.......... For those squeamish, it may seem absolutely terrible and might turn one to being a vegetarian but unfortunately this is the way of life just like the pig in Burgos. Personally, I would not purchase live animals to eat partly because I would have difficulty in dispatching them but also because it's such a fag to gut and prepare any beast fish, fowl or otherwise. The first time I saw the little bunnies in cages I was saddened and wanted to rescue one for a pet or whatever but after a year living here, it has ceased to be a problem. Anyone who eats meat has got to realise that this is the norm but normally we only come across the neatly packaged almost unrecognisable product. It's just that in Spain etc., it's a little more "in yer face". Returned to carry on working as well as preparing the toadstools that I had got in the market.
7th. November 2008 Absolutely gorgeous warm day which made a change after the really grotty weather of the past couple of weeks and it looks set to get better. The news is full of people skiing in the mountains on the one hand and swimming in the sea on the other. Apart from doing my washing, I spent the remainder of the day working but decided to go out to a local English run restaurant in the evening which had been highly recommended - what a disappointment. The owner wasn't over friendly and the clientele who were all English weren't either. I decided to have a curry since it was one of their specialities and I haven't a curry since I left the UK except what I have done myself. It wasn't unpleasant by any means but it couldn't be called a curry in a million years - more of a sweet and sour with chilli powder and the rice was short grain Spanish. It wasn't bad value at €8.95 but they charged 20 cents more for their beer than all the other local bars and restaurants and €1.50 for a puppodom on top. When I didn't leave a tip, the owner looked daggers at me but I reckon any tip was more than covered in those "extras" and the place though nice wasn't friendly. Just shows that "rip of Britain" has emigrated to Spain. 6th. November 2008 The next door neighbours to Diana (who had left early in the morning) proved to be an interesting couple (Nicky & Michael Holman) and I spent a pleasant afternoon with them. Turned out that Michael had taught organ etc. at Uppingham School (where my grandfather was) for over 30 years. Not only that, he had been taught by Ralph Downes albeit for a longer period than myself and others like Sidney Campbell of St Georges' Windsor. In fact the amount of people that we both know / knew such as John Bertalot, Nicholas Kynaston, Ralph Attwood and so on makes one realise just how small our little organ world is. He had certainly never heard of Hauptwerk and wasn't even aware of what MIDI was being of a rather older generation than myself so he was really quite intrigued by what HW offers and the great steps forward that have been made in digital sound production. I don't think that he will be rushing out to set himself up a system but the fact that another person now knows a bit about HW will hopefully, spread the word further. We may meet up again since they are returning to Las Madriles in Puerto de Mazarron tomorrow and I may very well go there again myself. Otherwise I continued working. 5th. November 2008 Diana (the NZ lady) knocked on my door this morning and joined me for coffee. After more conversation and because it was a very nice day, I offered to show her the way up Pila (which Jose had showed me on Monday). We went in her van which was somewhat lacking in power especially on hills and struggled most of the way up Pila. At one point the road goes round a cliff with a considerable drop and poor Diana said she couldn't cope with it. So I offered to drive the van around the precipice. I haven't driven an automatic for many years and it proved slightly disconcerting to try and remember that I didn't have a clutch. Diana walked round and got back in where it wasn't quite so exposed. We carried on with the van struggling and decided not that far from the top that it would be silly to let the van struggle anymore since a breakdown 7/8 ths. the way up a 4000' mountain would have been awkward to say the least. Thus, we turned round and came back down again. It was a pity since the views would have been better than a few days previously. We carried on into the next valley in beautiful countryside which was full of all sorts of fruit trees and eventually hit the main Albacete-Murcia road. A side turn off took us into some somewhat different and rather rugged countryside and villages which were recommended in the guides for a visit. Can't say they were stunning and being Wednesday, everything was closed, However, they are pleasant, pretty little villages. Finally arrived back at Banos and decided to have a meal in our site restaurant since neither of us could be bothered to cook. It was a really lovely day and Diana proved to be wonderful company and we just clicked from the first moment we met. Our views on spirituality and life in general were on common ground and it is sad that she is moving on to friends in Alicante on Thursday. As a secondary product of our meeting, it turned out that her next door English neighbours were a retired couple where he had been an organist.
4th. November 2008 Another quiet day working. Went to wash my pots in the public sinks for a change rather than use my own and bumped into a lady who was having difficulty opening the washing machine. Chatted for a while and she turned out to be from New Zealand though originally from Gloucestershire. Joined her outside her van later for a bottle of wine and further chat. We then ended up going to the other campsite restaurant which has a sensibly priced Menu del Dia since ours was closed. 3rd. November 2008 Was awakened quite early by Jose who asked me whether I would like to take a trip out to Pila which is the largest mountain around to which I obviously said "yes". after a coffee and sorting bits and pieces out, we drove down to Fortuna and picked up young Miguel who I had become friends with on my last visit. The driving of Jose at the best of times leaves a little bit to be desired as I have said before and going up steep mountain tracks with large drops is not he best place to get used to it but nonetheless, we arrived safely right at the top having passed the snow wells used in winter. It seems incredible that they do get snow here on the mountain from time to time. The views from the top were quite something and one could see as far as Torrevieja and the Laguna as well as over to the Mar Menor. In the other direction the views took in the Sierras de Cazorla and Espuna etc. However, it was a little chilly on top despite the sun and we eventually descended and I was dropped back at Banos. Both are really nice lads and it was great to see them again. Jose will call later in the week for another trip out somewhere - maybe I can persuade him to take me to Ricote to see its old organ ? Otherwise, I spent a quiet (for a change) afternoon working and must admit to feeling slightly depressed - partly because of the unseasonably cold and generally not brilliant weather, and partly because of worrying about the future in terms of financial aspects and "what the hell do I do when I run out of my fast diminishing capital". Jobs around here as much else in Europe are somewhat in the doldrums and the future isn't really that bright for anyone unless they are very, very rich. Having said that, it's definitely a lot worse elsewhere than it is here. The North continues to be inundated with floods and snow and there are even warnings of snow in Alicante Province mountains which I could actually see from today's views from Pila. I must hope that something somewhere will come up............The sample libraries when they are finished will earn a tiny bit but it will be a pitiful return for the amount of painstaking work that will have gone into them. However, if I didn't have the samples to work upon, I think that I would find it unbelievably boring. On that subject, I seem to be forever going round in circles. There is definitely the proverbial pot at the end of the rainbow in sight but it is proving very, very elusive to find. At the moment, the libraries are a "curates egg" and I suppose that my need is to produce a library where people cannot say "it's very nice but it's a pity it hasn't got a "Double Bent Bassoff 9',3/8" ". I really need to produce a library where the comment can be:- "it contains everything that one would ever need or want in an organ of its size and type" When they are released, I don't want people coming back to me and saying "it's lacking X Y or Z" because it only means that I will then have to go back and create it. I think I may catch the bus into Murcia City tomorrow and see what is going on. Otherwise, I can't see myself staying here for much more than another week before I move on to the South Med Costas. Much as I hate the idea of being in the Costa Blackpool concrete jungle, I may find work there - if not, it will be on into Portugal and the Algarve for Christmas etc. where at least it will be quieter and cheaper.
31st. October -2nd. November 2008 It's been another very noisy weekend because it was All Saints day which is a bank holiday here. Thank God they have buggered of now because for everyone not Spanish, it was a bit much to have to suffer. At least there won't be another bank holiday now until the Immaculate Conception on the 8th. December. My friend Jose sent me a text that he was back from his honeymoon so I expect he will turn up in the next few days. Otherwise, the weather has been really rather crap. Today was nice and sunny (and warm) after torrential rain last night but the national forecast isn't looking good for the next few days with rain or snow just about everywhere. Where I am currently, and where I plan to be over the next couple of months or so is never going to be really cold - even at night. However, the trouble is that once one has got used to nice warm weather for most of the time, it really does become very noticeable when it gets even slightly colder. The thought of suffering another British winter is something that doesn't bear thinking about. The long struggle on the sample libraries continues and I have returned to some Kenneth Jones / Nicholson samples to see whether I can find those things that I am missing. So far some of the results are favourable and the way things are going, I should be able to produce an acceptable small three manual out of what they offer. Of course this isn't anything to do with the Romantic Willis and will be a separate instrument, but if one stop can be used which blends well with the original Willis then that will be fine. Of course, it won't be original Willis but then again, many instruments by Willis weren't all Willis. Willis along with pretty much all the other builders throughout history wasn't one to go throwing out perfectly good ranks or part ranks of other builders in either new or reconstructed instruments if they were any good. Indeed I know that the "new" instrument by Jones and Nicholson that I have sampled had plenty of old stuff - the bass of the Salicional for instance is definitely by someone else and whilst repainted, revoiced and beautified, is still someone else's old Salicional bass. The skill lies in being able to incorporate new / old and good stuff within otherwise original ranks - a beautiful Lieblich Gedeckt is precisely that - whether it fits into a particular tonal scheme is something that needs to be worked on. If it is necessary to provide a new top octave to replace a battered existing one, then so be it. What I got from Sanguesa was a mixture of good and bad but out of it, there is a very acceptable Gamba (which I was missing) and an Oboe which although not absolutely wonderful, produces an excellent Fagot 16' bass octave (which I was also missing) and no amount of pitch shifting of existing ranks or using alternative part ranks could provide. The stuff I did at George's works is mostly for the bin but amongst the dross is a fine Waldhorn bass. That was the only part of the rank still extant but it was good. I have a couple of Cornopeans - both at 8'; one will remain as it stands as an 8' but the other which is slightly less prominent needed a 16' bass to make a perfect Waldhorn and this I have now found. If I really want to go to town, I can "re-voice" pretty much anything to fit but it's so nice to find say just one octave of an otherwise unremarkable stop that fits perfectly into the scheme of things. Sadly this is the way of pipe organs and very few builders have ever produced an instrument that is all good. Remember that I am not producing some historical facsimile of a known instrument - I leave that to others......what I am trying to produce is a typical British Romantic organ with the emphasis on Father Willis qualities. If I have to use stuff from other builders and it fits then I am definitely going to do so. Many Willis instruments used Tierce mixtures to the exclusion of any other mixture and whilst these are still valuable, modern day trends tend to eschew their universal usage in a specification. Even Father Willis moderated his mixtures in later years so that the typical "Stainer" mixture appeared which was a sort of half and half. In St George's Hall Liverpool, a typical original mixture of V ranks was along the lines of 12:15:17:19:22 but listen to them today and there is no hint of any tierce in their make up. Similarly, a recently rebuilt F.W had tierce mixtures when I first played it many years ago but now they are unisons and quints only. In most cases I intend to provide the separate Tierce as an individual stop and following Audsley's advice, "if there is a Tierce in the division, it is unnecessary to duplicate it in the other mixtures". It's all a very complex procedure and playing through what I have done shows that I am now heading in the right direction. Hopefully, I shall be able to release a really good British Romantic organ in the not too distant future - heaven knows, it's taken me long enough. 19th-30th. October 2008 My internet connection is about to run out so I will have to be quick in writing this. Suffice it to say that work continues on. The weather has been crap but nothing compared to what it has been elsewhere especially in the north of Europe. It's supposed to be really nice down here at this time of year but the temperatures have dropped and the cold North wind is blowing down the freezing conditions of regions not so many leagues from here. Imagine that where I was only 3 weeks ago in fairly pleasant weather is now under a blanket of several feet of snow ! it's still quite pleasant down here but not half as pleasant as it should be. As regards work, I continue on with yet more samples and hopefully one day I will see the wood from the trees. yes, I had all but completed the former Great etc. but in playing it all back, something seemed to have been missed. The last few months have been spent working out just what it was that I had managed to lose. Now I think I have found it and the technique will be referred to as "gradually scaled attack" or something similar in the future. It has taken ages to work out the exact formula to achieve a natural sounding stop without the other problems associated with using this technique. Hopefully, this will bode well for my future workings though it does mean that much of what I had previously completed is now for the rubbish bin. The only other fly in the ointment has been the dying of an old graphics card in my main computer which has meant the transfer of everything to a replacement. I hope to replace much of this with some pics and a better diary than time allows at present. 17th. + 18th. October 2008 Working again: this time on more celestes and string stops. 16th. October 2008 Took the van in for the service which then left me several hours to kill. fortuna has little to offer so I cycled gradually back to Los Banos calling in on the way to an English run bar which was quite pleasant. I then spent a few hours in the gorgeous spa pool before returning to pick up the van. Unfortunately, they were unable to find why the radio cum DVD etc. player wasn't working but confirmed that power was getting to the unit so it's obviously duff. Total cost of the service including oils and filters etc. came not to 80€ but 70€ inclusive of VAT which I thought was excellent and this wasn't some back street shed but the main Renault garage !
15th. October 2008 Unfortunately, Jose rang me to say that he wouldn't be coming because he was ill so I spent the day working. 14th.October 2008 Got a knock on the door by some bloke I didn't recognise and who turned out to be Jose without his beard and a couple of stone heavier. ! Long chat over coffee complete with dire warnings about the Gitanos who have moved on to the site and whom he recognised - they won't be here long. I don't think that they will cause much fuss but nonetheless, he warned me to lock everything up just in case. Looks like we are going caving tomorrow. Otherwise, dropped down into the town to get some bits and pieces and enquired about servicing the van at the local Renault garage. They will do it on Thursday and it will be ready the same day. Cost ??? Approx 80€ including oils and filters etc. Why would one ever want to get it serviced in the UK ? 13th. October 2008 Carried on working on some more Celestes and waited in for my friend Jose who didn't show. 12th. October 2008 Quiet day being a Sunday - worked 11th. October 2008 Originally, I had intended to spend several days in Ruidera but I was so disappointed that I decided that one noisy night was enough. Thus I set off eastwards towards the Sierra de Alcaraz /Cazorla with the intention of stopping at the Nacimiento del Rio Mundo on the way. The "Birth of the World River" was a mere 5 km. detour from my road so I drove up to it in the by now, pouring rain. The NDRM must be one of the most impressive resurgences in the world in that the river cave exit is at the top of a 300' cliff. The best time to see it of course is during snowmelt in spring or winter but nonetheless, despite the fact that the waterfall wasn't the great "chorro" that it can be, it was still a very impressive sight. From there, I continued on in the pouring rain finally arriving in Murcia in the late afternoon. The rain stopped and although the clouds were still in evidence, the sun was attempting to shine through. What was very noticeable was the sudden increase in temperature. I finally arrived back in Fortuna where I had been a year ago and after a quick visit to the supermarket arrived at the campsite. What a difference to the previous campsites of the last few days. La fuente was always reasonably priced which is why I stayed for six weeks before but they have reduced prices slightly this year and they now have WiFi (albeit at an average charge). The receptionist recognised me immediately and even knew my name. She threw her arms round me and gave me a kiss as did the lady cook in the restaurant / bar. In fact, everyone recognised me which was very nice. I was very happy here before although there isn't that much around in terms of architectural interest and I feel almost like coming home. What's more, I have Spanish friends who live here and the difference is that my Spanish is now pretty fluent whereas nearly a year ago it wasn't. I don't know how long I will stay here but it will certainly be for a while. And finally, it's warm both in the day and at night and when the current "Gota Fria" or cold front has gone on Monday, the sun will shine and it will be really very pleasant indeed. 10th. October 2008 Unfortunately, Richard had to return to the UK but in the time he was here, we saw much that was worth seeing. We drove up to the airport and I dropped him off. I then drove southwards through some initially rather hairy traffic around the Madrid ring roads. The journey across La Mancha was not overly inspiring and very, very windy which created a constant haze of dust. Finally, I arrived at the Lagunas de Ruidera which proved to be utterly disappointing since the drop in the water table through extraction has left both them and the Tablas de Dalmiel in a rather unimpressive state. the Lagunas should be like Plitvice in Yugoslavia but they are a very, very poor equivalent (even if the water was flowing). The campsite was noisy with neither mobile phone signal or any form of internet access and although the restaurant and bar were open for the weekend otherwise, the nearest anything else was a good 10 kilometres away. 9th. October 2008 (The campsite at Toledo was overpriced and really very poor. Not only was it very expensive but only one small ablutions block was open, there were only 4 water points for the whole site and the nearest restaurant or bar was a good mile or so walk away in the city since everything on the site was closed. The night before, we had walked into the city and found it very difficult to find anything open apart from a rather expensive restaurant which whilst being very good was rather too expensive for what it offered). We walked back into the city in the morning and found a really delightful place. Although Segovia and other cities are very attractive and interesting, Toledo is really rather special. Everything seems to blend harmoniously and every street presents a new and interesting vista. The Jewish synagogues and the former mosques are very beautiful and the cathedral is vast. It's actually a bit overdone as regards pretty much everything but nonetheless rather spectacular. Apart from the two main "Choro" organs bristling with en chamades, there is also the Emperor organ built into a stone case plus at least two other small chamber type instruments. So, Toledo is definitely a city worth discovering and worth visiting on more than one occasion. A rather noisy night followed with loads of Spanish in tents
8th. October 2008 Drove the few kilometres to the "Valley of the Fallen" which was free on Wednesdays to EU citizens. Richard had mentioned that on flying in, he had seen this huge cross and there it was in front of us. What can one say ? The Valley of the Fallen is rather stupendous. Set amongst forest, one arrives at the car park where the 400' + cross sits on a bunch of rugged rocks. Directly below is this huge columned entrance into what must be one of the most extraordinary churches on earth. The Basilica is basically a huge tunnel into the mountain which ends at a enormous dome. To give some idea of the scale since no photos could be taken inside, it is larger than either St Peter's in Rome or St Paul's in London. A full mass was in progress when we entered with half a dozen priests and a boys choir accompanied by organ. both Richard and I debated as to whether the organ was digital or pipe. It was very difficult since the acoustics were so huge - sometimes it sounded slightly digital other times not. Richard remarked that the choir sounded one hell of a lot better than those in Rome. When we finally got to the dome after the mass was finished there was indeed a large pipe organ behind a rather uninspiring pipe front but the actual organ we had been hearing was an Ahlborn ! Just goes to show that in the right acoustics, if two very experienced organists and organ builders have difficulty deciding whether an organ is real or counterfeit, it rather puts the whole thing into perspective for the average parishioner who doesn't really know what an organ should really sound like. The whole place had a slightly weird atmosphere and was utterly breathtaking and fascinating. On to El Escorial from there and yet another mind blowing place which actually houses the largest organ in Spain. The monastery cum Hapsburg palace is huge and definitely well worth a visit although sadly the chapel and basilica were closed for restoration. Apart from all the El Greco paintings, it was stunning to see some very famous other paintings hanging on the walls. We then drove onto Toledo. 7th. October 2008 We set off in a westerly direction and since it was not too far, we drove over the mountains towards Segovia. On the way, we stopped at a very pretty monastery which was closed and decided to carry on to Segovia. The road took us way up into the mountains to about 5000' where we passed through the famous ski resort of Navacerrada before descending via the San Ildefonso Gardens into Segovia. Parked up a fair distance from the city near the aqueduct and walked in. Whether it was the fact that the weather was somewhat cloudy or that I had been there before, Segovia didn't have quite the impact it did on me the first time I visited earlier in the year. We did all the sights and returned to the van to travel on to El Escorial. Huge campsite at El Escorial with nothing open and the nearest restaurant a good 9 km. away. However, it was pleasant enough. 6th. October 2008 Left Aranjuez to drive to Madrid airport and pick up RDS calling in at a PC City on the way to get some ink for the printer. Interesting to see the rather more informal dress of the Spanish as opposed to PC World in the UK. otherwise it looked pretty much the same apart from everything being in Spanish. Arrived at the airport in good time for a recce and found that it would be relatively easy to pick up RDS when he arrived. Drove off into the nearby suburbs and got completely lost looking for a decent supermarket before finally arriving back very near the airport to await a call from Richard. Panicked a bit when far earlier than expected, I looked at my mobile and found one call missed and one message. Tried calling from both phones but to no avail. However, the airport was a mere minutes drive away and when I got there and used my Spanish phone RDS answered - in fact he was only a few yards away. Drove off northwards to a campsite about 35 miles away which was situated by some beautiful razor shaped mountains and "set up camp". Lovely meal in a very nice restaurant / bar a few hundred yards from the campsite before settling down for the night. 5th. October 2008 Another quiet day working. Met up with some charming Austrians who invited me over for a drink and a very pleasant evening ensued. 4th. October 2008 Samples ! 3rd. October 2008 Cycled into the town. What can one say about Aranjuez ? I had imagined this fantastic place where rodrigo had inspiration to write the gorgeous Concierto. Yes, it does have a wonderful palace which gives it the name of "The Versailles of Spain" but apart from that there isn't much to recommend it. I thought it was just me but speaking to other people, they seem to echo my thoughts. Fontainbleau has a stunning palace but the town itself isn't vastly exciting however, it's an improvement on Aranjuez. Yes, it's a pleasant town. Yes, it has beautiful gardens and many trees but the most accurate description that I can provide is to imagine a place like Milton Keynes or Welwyn Garden City a couple of hundred years in the future. All of the trees will have grown up and the lakes and fountains will have matured along with the architecture of current times. Indeed, I imagine that in future years that the likes of Milton Keynes will seem to be a pleasant oasis amongst a sea of as yet unbuilt surrounding towns and cities. Certainly in comparison to places like Almeria it is definitely attractive but the one thing it doesn't have is that traditional soul and heart. I can't say that I like Seville particularly or Granada, Malaga etc. but at least these cities (apart from the mess of their outskirts), have an inner charm and character especially around the historical parts which are rewarding to discover once one gets past the ugliness of those outskirts. Aranjuez was merely a load of fields a few hundred years ago where they decided to build a palace and plant lots of trees. The town was built on a grid plan around the palace. There is no cathedral, there are only a couple of "Georgian" style churches, there are really no other great stately houses and there is no atmosphere that one can find in the likes of Segovia or Avila etc.
2nd. October 2008 Time to move on to Aranjuez which will put me fairly close to Madrid. Left Cuenca and drove westwards. Got as far as Tarancon, a rather uninspiring little town, where I got into a few problems. There were just no signposts for anywhere at all. Having got into the centre, logically I made my way through in the hopes of finding the right road out. It was somewhat tight in places and eventually I ended up on the periphery of the town hoping to find my way on. No such luck - the roads led me straight into the weekly market and a dead end. Having turned around with great difficulty, I finally stopped in the middle of the market and got out of the van to ask for help. Loads of market stall holders came up to offer advice and they spent several minutes discussing which was the best way for me to extricate myself from the mess that I was in. Much advice and contra advice given as to the best route with dire warnings of how tight it was this way or that. Finally I ended up in something a bit wider and asked a postman who told me that I was still going the wrong way and that I needed to go a different way. So I spent almost an hour getting thoroughly lost and into some rather tight places before I found the road onwards. It's at times like this that I really thank God that I don't have a bigger van or I am towing a caravan ! Finally on the road towards Aranjuez, I stopped at a Mercadona supermarket where I found the first fresh milk that I have seen in several months as well as various other things that I haven't come across for a long while. I still find it hard to comprehend that the further away you are from the actual milk producing areas of Spain, the easier it is to get fresh milk. It is almost impossible to buy fresh milk in the north. Finally arrived in Aranjuez which turns out to be a very attractive town with the campsite a short walk away from the centre. Got tooted on the main roundabout in town for not giving way to someone coming onto the roundabout but there were no signs indicating that entrants to the roundabout have right of way. However, it was a polite toot - more of a "by the way" comment with a smile than an obstreperous "Oi ! What the ^&*% do you think you are doing" one. Lovely Category 1 campsite by the River Tagus which unlike the "Nacimiento" is now actually a respectable river with water in it. It's also a lot warmer here since it's only about 2000' up as opposed to 4000'. Aranjuez (famous of course for the concerto), is known as the "Spanish Versailles". So far it seems to be a rather nice place and I shall be here at least three days before I have to brave the Madrid traffic to pick up RDS on Monday. 1st. October 2008 I have now been away from the UK for exactly a year. What a year it has been in many ways. I have seen a pretty good amount of Spain in all of its seasons and apart from Galicia, I have visited every province. I remain convinced that it is one of the finest countries on earth and that it is a place that I would one day wish to live in. Yes, it has a few problems but overall, it is a country of tremendous beauty where the people are the kindest, most polite, friendly and welcoming that one could wish to find anywhere. There are some ugly parts - mainly on the overbuilt Costas or on the outskirts of cities, There are little annoyances which defy any rational thinking but these are so insignificant that they cannot ruin what is otherwise a perfect place to be. Enough of the waxing lyrical............ I drove the few miles up to the Ciudad Encantada and apart from being a little confused as to where the entrance was on account of the upside down map, I entered and found a very interesting little place. It's not quite as impressive as El Torcal down in Andalucia but it is worth the visit. Like show caves, there are plenty of fanciful names for the various formations and one or two rather defy the descriptions given to them. On the way back I stopped at the Ventano de Diablo or Window of the Devil which provided a pretty view.
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